Quick answer
- Georgette is grainy, springy and slightly sheer. It hardly creases, so it is the all-rounder for party wear and regular wear.
- Chiffon is lighter, smoother and more see-through than georgette. It floats and clings, and it needs the gentlest care.
- Net is an open mesh that carries embroidery, sequins and stone work. It sells for receptions and sangeet and needs a lining.
- Banarasi soft silk is for weddings and festivals; cotton silk is crisper and more matte, for daytime functions, pujas and office wear.
- Organza and tissue are crisp, sheer and shiny. They stand away from the body, suit day functions and pastel looks, and are dry clean only.
Every saree fabric sells to a different customer. Georgette and chiffon are soft and flowing, for customers who want comfort and movement. Net, organza and tissue are sheer and structured, for a dressed-up look. Banarasi soft silk and cotton silk carry woven zari and suit weddings, festivals and daytime functions.
The quickest way to sell the right one is to know each fabric by touch. Here is how we explain seven fabrics to buyers at our Surat factory.
All seven fabrics side by side
This table is the whole guide in short. Keep it near your counter for new staff.
| Fabric | Feel and drape | How to recognise it | Who buys it, for what | Care |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Georgette | Grainy, springy, flows but has some body | Pebbly surface, slightly see-through, feels dry | Party and office wear, all ages | Plain pieces: gentle cold hand wash. Embellished: dry clean |
| Chiffon | Very light, smooth, floats and clings | Thinner and smoother than georgette; you can read through it | Parties and summer events, younger customers | Dry clean or gentle cold hand wash |
| Net | Open mesh, from soft to slightly stiff | Visible holes in a grid; work sits on top of the mesh | Receptions, sangeet, cocktail and Bollywood-style looks | Dry clean; store flat; keep away from jewellery hooks |
| Banarasi soft silk | Smooth, soft sheen, full and graceful fall | Woven zari motifs, threads visible on the reverse | Weddings, receptions, festivals, family functions | Dry clean only; fold in cotton or muslin |
| Cotton silk | Crisp, light, holds pleats, breathes well | Soft matte sheen, slightly textured, dry hand feel | Pujas, daytime functions, office wear, summer weddings | Dry clean for the first wash; follow the label after that |
| Organza | Stiff, crisp, stands away from the body | Sheer and glassy; rustles; springs back when crushed | Day weddings, haldi and mehendi, pastel and floral looks | Dry clean only; steam at low heat |
| Tissue | Crisp and light with a metallic shimmer | Zari through the weave, shines all over | Festive mornings, pujas, South Indian and Kerala-style looks | Dry clean only; wrap in muslin to protect the zari |
How soft is the drape?
Drape is the first thing a customer feels when she holds a saree against herself, so we rate it on one scale: how softly the fabric falls and follows the body.
| Fabric | Drape softness, out of 5 |
|---|---|
| Chiffon | 5 |
| Georgette | 4 |
| Banarasi soft silk | 4 |
| Net | 3 |
| Cotton silk | 3 |
| Tissue | 2 |
| Organza | 1 |
A low score is not a fault. Organza is bought precisely because it stands out and photographs crisp.
Georgette: the easy all-rounder
Georgette is the fabric most customers can wear anywhere. Tightly twisted yarns give it a grainy, slightly crinkled surface and a springy fall. It is a little see-through and does not crease easily.
Rub it between thumb and finger: georgette feels dry and pebbly, never slippery. Most georgette sold for sarees today is polyester; pure silk georgette exists but costs much more, so check the label before you describe it.
Printed georgette sells for regular wear, embroidered and sequin georgette for parties. We supply sequin and sparkle georgette fabric in a 44-inch width, cut in 2.5, 3 and 5.5 metre lengths, which boutiques use for sarees, gowns and lehengas. Our earlier post on why georgette suits Indian dressing goes deeper into styling.
Chiffon: lighter and smoother than georgette
Chiffon is thinner, smoother and more transparent than georgette. It floats when the customer walks and clings close to the body, which is why it is popular for a slim, film-style drape.
The quick test: lay it over printed paper. You can usually read through chiffon, while georgette blurs the letters. Chiffon snags on rings and bangles and frays at cut edges, so advise dry cleaning or a very gentle cold hand wash, with no wringing.
Net: a base for embroidery and sparkle
A net saree is really about the work on it. The mesh is plain; the sequins, stone work, embroidery or lace on top are what the customer pays for. Net suits receptions, sangeet nights and cocktail parties, where the saree must shine under lights.
Before you buy net, check that the embroidery is backed well enough not to pull the mesh. Store net flat or loosely rolled, never on a hook, and away from jewellery that can catch the holes.
Banarasi soft silk: the wedding and festival favourite
Banarasi soft silk gives the Banarasi look, zari butta, jaal and rich pallus, on a soft fabric that drapes easily. It is our biggest range and sells all year.
Turn the saree over to recognise it. Woven zari usually shows on the reverse as floating or cut threads behind each motif, which a printed design never has. In our listings, a Banarasi soft silk saree weighs between about 390 and 850 grams depending on how much zari is woven in, with most close to 550 grams. All are dry clean only.
Label these honestly as Banarasi soft silk or Banarasi-style, not as handloom or GI-tagged Banarasi silk. Our retailer's guide to Banarasi soft silk covers how to build a range, and the Banarasi soft silk catalogue shows current designs.
Cotton silk: crisp, breathable and good for daytime
Cotton silk is a blend that takes the comfort of cotton and adds a gentle sheen. It feels drier and crisper than soft silk, holds pleats neatly and breathes in the heat, so it is the saree customers choose for pujas, daytime functions and office wear.
Recognise it by its soft matte glow and slightly textured hand. Sarees in our cotton silk range weigh roughly 420 to 565 grams, and many carry zari checks, buttas or a woven pallu. Advise a dry clean for the first wash; after that, follow the care label of that design.
Organza and tissue: crisp, sheer and made to shine
Organza is a thin, stiff, glassy fabric that stands away from the body. It rustles when you move it and springs back when crushed. That body is why it suits day weddings, haldi, mehendi and pastel looks.
Tissue has fine metallic zari running through the weave, so the whole surface shimmers. Many of our Banarasi soft silk designs use a tissue-look pallu or border: the shine of tissue with the softer drape of the silk body.
Both are dry clean only. Organza should be steamed at low heat and stored loosely folded so creases do not set. Our organza designs sit mostly in the fancy sarees section.
Identify any saree fabric in 30 seconds
Five checks, in this order, identify almost every fabric in this guide without a label.
- Hold it to the light Clear: chiffon, net or organza. Blurred: georgette. Opaque: soft silk or cotton silk.
- Crush it in your fist Organza and tissue spring back, georgette barely creases, cotton silk keeps soft lines.
- Rub it between your fingers Pebbly and dry is georgette, smooth and cool is chiffon, matte and textured is cotton silk.
- Drape it over your arm Compare the fall with the drape chart above.
- Turn it over Floating threads behind the motifs mean woven zari; a clean reverse means print or surface work.
From our factory: Keep one piece of each fabric under the counter and teach your staff these checks. When a customer asks "Is this silk?", a confident answer sells more than a discount.
Which fabrics should a shop stock first?
Start with what your customers already wear. In our experience, Banarasi soft silk is the base for weddings and festivals, cotton silk covers daytime and office wear, and georgette covers parties. Add organza, tissue and net in smaller numbers for the reception season.
With a minimum of 20 pieces per design, you can test a fabric without filling your shelves. Send us your list on WhatsApp at +91 99131 40434, or contact us to visit the factory and handle every fabric yourself.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between georgette and chiffon sarees?
Both are light and sheer, but georgette is heavier, grainier and springier, while chiffon is thinner, smoother and more transparent. Georgette creases less and is usually the safer choice for regular wear. Chiffon floats and clings for a slimmer drape but snags more easily, so customers often pick it for parties.
Which saree fabric is easiest to maintain?
Plain georgette is usually the easiest: it hardly creases, dries quickly and many plain pieces take a gentle cold hand wash. Banarasi soft silk, organza, tissue and anything with heavy embroidery, sequins or zari should be dry cleaned and stored folded in cotton or muslin.
Which saree fabric is best for a wedding?
In our experience, Banarasi soft silk is the most requested for the bride's family, because the woven zari looks rich and the soft drape stays comfortable through long functions. Organza and tissue suit haldi and mehendi. For the reception, net and embellished georgette shine under evening lights.
Is Banarasi soft silk pure silk?
No. Banarasi soft silk is a Banarasi-style woven saree on a soft, light fabric, not a handloom pure silk Banarasi. It gives the zari motifs and rich pallu at a much lower price and weight. Sell it under that name, never as handloom, pure silk or GI-tagged silk.
Why does organza feel stiff and will it soften?
Organza is woven tightly from fine twisted yarns and finished to be crisp, so the stiffness is part of the fabric, not a defect. It softens a little with wear but keeps its body. Customers who want a sheer look with a softer fall should try chiffon or a tissue-look soft silk.
Can I order these fabrics in custom colours?
Yes, on bulk orders. Our sarees start at 20 pieces per design, and many designs already come in a set of colours. Share the colour reference and quantity on WhatsApp and we will confirm what is possible for that design before you order.
